It was a smashing holiday (27th Nov – 17th Dec) ! Had tons of interesting food and visited neat places. Let me try to do a recap of the highlights…
Flew into Tokyo first and then took the Shinkansen up to Nagano, which is in the heart of Honshu. The city itself wasn’t much but the Shinshu soba was yummy, and there were so many buckwheat-based products. The main attraction was the Zenkoji temple and we managed to catch a glimpse of the 753 festival. At the tourist information centre, I was thrilled that the guide working there commented that my Japanese was kirei (free from a foreign accent). Surely that motivates me to practise speaking more often.
On 29th Nov, we took the local train up to Yudanaka, where the ryokan awaits. We walked through the small town and had lunch in a very small soba-ya. I love the local townsfolk, they were very very friendly and gave us free Shinshu apples for dessert. I must say that those apples are extremely crunchy and sweet. It was amazing to see the apple trees, laden with huge apples along the railway tracks. I don’t think I have seen fruiting apple trees before, so it was a treat.
By the time we arrived at the ryokan, it was time to explore the 9 famous bathhouses of Shibu onsen. Thanks to the hostess of the ryokan who suggested that we should put on a coat over our yukata, since it was pretty chilly outside, we were called ‘kawaii’ by an elderly couple outside a bathhouse. Yes, they were dressed in yukata only.
Bathhouse after bathhouse, the water was scalding. We just couldn’t enter the water, until we returned to the ryokan and again the friendly hostess informed us that we should mix the spring water with tap water first. So we soldiered back to the first bathhouse and followed her instructions. Clearly, that was wise.
As we were acclimatising to the scalding water, a group of Japanese ladies entered the bathhouse next door. And all of a sudden, we heard shrieks of ‘Atsui!’ They found the water too hot too! Clearly, they have not heeded the instructions of the ryokan hostess. So, it was an amusing to hear a group of Japanese ladies shrieking through a paper-thin divider while we were soaking in the water. After a while, they gave up and left.
I’m not sure if you could term this as schadenfreude, but it was good fun! Dinner was heavenly! It was a luxurious meal, filled with horse sashimi (sounds scary, but it tastes good), rare mushrooms, braised anko (anglerfish), huge shrimps, pork shabu shabu etc. I’m quite sure a similar feast in Singapore would set you back by 2,3 hundred dollars. But it’s just such an experience eating and sleeping in a Japanese ryokan.
Breakfast was similarly delicious on a smaller scale. Then we left for the snow monkey park, which was where the Japanese macaques revelled in the hot springs themselves. I’m not sure if they were playing to the crowd, but it was interesting to see the little baby monkeys staying by the edge of the springs, never daring to enter. Too hot, I suppose.
By the time we returned to Tokyo, it was late in the afternoon. On 1st Dec, we ventured to Shinjuku gyoen, which is an Imperial garden. I’m running low on the really touristy places to visit in Tokyo. Lunch at the employees cafe in the Tokyo Metropolitan Building was a steal, for its prices were reasonable. At this point I feel that there is so much value in making repeated visits to a place, for you discover different dimensions to it and develop a better picture of the place.
Then we explore Shimokitazawa, a neighbourhood that is filled with 2nd-hand shops. That kind of sums up our Japan leg of the trip. We flew to New York on 2nd Dec.